Every time I go to Madrid (three times and counting), I without fail head to Lateral for tapas. Yes, it’s a chain. But a good one. Their tapas is modern and somewhat upmarket, but without being pretentious. It is the perfect place for a bite before dinner or for dinner itself. Don’t forget to ring for the waiter, otherwise they will not come. You have a cube on the table, one button for the waiter, the other for the bill. It is lively and buzzing, without being too noisy. The Fuencarral one is especially trendy, but very popular, so be prepared to queue.