This was our ‘local’ town. And how lucky we were to be just a 5 minute drive from this pretty white town in the Valle D’Itria (aka Trulli country). It seems to have some of the best restaurants in the area (while lacking in bars, but nearby Locorotondo helps out there). There are pots of plants and flowers everywhere: blood red geraniums spilling over windowsills, big green ferns in shady corners. The pots of cacti on quiet stairwells serve as a reminder that you’re in the hot south.
We had dinner on the stylish roof terrace of La Capase. While from the inside I would have done the decor very differently, and I don’t think they used the space well (or the right colours), the roof terrace was unexpectedly lovely. I had read good things about La Capase, but again had not expected the standard of food – or the presentation – to be so good. Everything from the tuna tartare with miso froth, to the breaded lamb with liquorice and finally a seriously phenomenal array of puddings (the chocolate souflé won) left us more than impressed. Best of all is that their prices are so reasonable – a dinner which would have cost about £80 per person in London cost about €40 here – which some how makes the food taste even better.
Apart from La Capase, there are a number of other recommended restaurants in town. We happened upon Enoteca Il Cucco, where my father bought a number of local wines (they have a great selection). Most days it is also open for dinner, with a small but excellent menu, and obviously a very good choice of wine. The restaurant was closed when we went, but the owner was very charming and you could tell she loves her job and is passionate (and knowledgeable) about wine.
Finally, Osteria Sant’Anna is meant to be really good too. Despite a nondescript exterior, it has a large dining room with vaulted ceilings as well as a terrace and the ambience, service and food is meant to be of an exceptional standard.
Forno Pronto is what we really should have tried: the local favourite where butchers allow you to choose your meat and they BBQ it for you on the spot. There was one on nearly every street, and we saw locals as well as a few tourists enjoying it.
An excuse to return, not that I need it.
All photos are mine.