Considering that Italian food is my favourite cuisine and I spend most of my time eating in Soho, it’s a bit of a miracle that I had never been to Boca di Lupo until last week.
London has some wonderful Italian restaurants; from ‘swanky’ Zafferano, to South Ken favourite La Famiglia, to the more relaxed but no less excellent Trullo and Padella. But Buco di Lupo is a name I hear regularly, constantly, and it’s always being praised.
Book to sit at the kitchen bar, where all the action is. The food is excellent. Simple, no messing about, wonderful Italian food. My favourite was the potato gnocchi with sausage. While gnocchi is usually a stodgy, heavy dish, this was light, delicate and full of flavour. The pumpkin risotto was good too, but didn’t stand out as much for me.
We ordered the Tagliata to share for the main course. I’m glad we shared because it is truly massive (and beautifully cooked). The rocket and parmesan are the perfect accompaniment, and we ordered a tomato salad which worked very well too.
We also enjoyed their wine. Quite a lot of wine, as a matter of fact, from different regions in Italy (they have an excellent, if expensive, Italian wine list). My favourite was the Barbera, but, at £17 per glass, it’s not automatically your go-to wine. The Sangiovese was good too, and I can’t remember what else we drank because things got a bit blurry…
In Soho, where you are spoilt for choice of restaurants, Buco di Lupo stands out. The staff are friendly and knowledgeable, the food superb, the setting beautiful, warm and cosy. Next time my father’s in town, I’m taking him there. And that’s got to be a good sign.
12 Archer St, Soho,
London W1D 7BB